1 second.
I was in the water for 1.5 hours.That was 500 bucks on my Expenses list.
I had bruises on my sternum and knees.
I missed boxing.
I was only able to stand on my board for 1 freakin' second.
I couldn't coordinate my limbs.
I realized how much I missed dry land when it was all over.
Surfing's not for me.
But damn I wanna go back.
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